By Charly SHELTON
When Bourbon Steak opened its doors last March at the Americana at Brand, it was met with high praise, and rightfully so. The steaks and signature dishes, like lobster pot pie and truffle mac and cheese, provide guests with a truly satisfying experience that, although pricey and not available to most as a regular night out, remain cherished in the hearts and minds of those who dine there once, twice or a hundred times.
I had only dined there once for a review when it first opened, but enjoyed it so much that it was the obvious choice for a big anniversary dinner with the girlfriend. By planning in May that this would be the anniversary dinner, I was assured that she would be happy to go to a nice restaurant for the big night and, more importantly, I wouldn’t forget our anniversary because it meant I could return to Bourbon Steak.
We celebrated our seven years together two weeks ago over bourbon and cocktails and a 32 oz. porterhouse. Having dined there previously, I expected the same high quality of service and fare as on our first visit. I was not disappointed.
Our server informed us that there have been some changes made in the last few months, all changes for the better. Changes in staff and in menu, bringing the overall quality of the restaurant higher, up from even the lofty heights where it sat before.
One of the new dishes available is the stuffed crispy potato. The best way to describe it is a potato skin for the civilized man. Lightly crispy on the outside and filled with mashed potato, bacon, cheese and a delicate sour cream, this reinvents the potato skin so as not to weigh you down in a greasy fried mess. This came alongside a black truffle mac and cheese, one of my favorite dishes. Although I usually like my truffles more intense, this was the perfect balance for my girlfriend. She is not a fan, usually refusing to eat truffle foods because to her they taste like “rubber and dirt.” She surprisingly liked this truffle mac because it was flavorful enough to pull out the best qualities of the truffle without getting too earthy.
The moment of truth was when the steak came out – 32 ounces of dry aged porterhouse steak expertly grilled to medium rare and sliced off the bone, perfect for sharing and enjoying right away. We split the steak and it was just the right amount for two people to share without wanting more or having leftovers.
Ending the meal with dessert was a herculean effort after all that had crossed the table, but I never back down from a challenge. The house sent over a plate of cookies and macaroons for our table, including a raspberry jam linzer cookie that is the best I have ever had. Soft and delicate cookies sandwiched around thick, goopy jam, this linzer is the most perfect version of the cookie I have encountered yet, and I can eat my weight in Jammie Dodgers.
Dessert arrived and it was a work of art in a bowl. Cranberry cobbler with house made buttermilk ice cream and The Bourbon white chocolate sundae with white devil’s food cake, malted brown butter espresso ice cream and bourbon white chocolate fudge. After duck fat fries, truffle bread rolls, a 32 oz. steak, truffle mac, crispy potatoes and a plate of cookies and macaroons, this sundae and cobbler were just too much and had to be left only half finished, despite that they were so incredibly decadent and delicious that on any other evening, they would have been completely gone.
We left the restaurant full and satisfied, and counting the days until our next anniversary dinner.
In the coming weeks, CV Weekly will be sharing with readers more new creations coming from the kitchen and bar at Bourbon Steak as the spring menu is unveiled starting next month. Bourbon Steak is located at The Americana at Brand, 237 S. Brand Blvd. in Glendale.